From May 1 to June 1, 2024, an international team of five traversed approximately 580 kilometres along Greenland's East Coast, starting from Kangerlussuaq and ending in Isortoq. They traveled unsupported, relying solely on skis for transportation and carrying about one ton of equipment and provisions. The expedition forms part of a low-carbon footprint scientific project aimed at enhancing our understanding of Earth's climate, particularly focusing on changes in the Greenland ice sheet and their impact on global sea levels.
I caught up with The Greenland Project team earlier this summer, just one month after completing their remarkable expedition.
What inspired each of you to join the The Greenland Project?
Everyone on the team had their own personal reasons and inspiration for participating. But, what united us all was a shared love of nature and the challenge of the project at hand. The team was assembled with the idea that our differences would make the team stronger as a whole - a true "1+1=3" situation.
This approach worked out perfectly, and we can only recommend others to explore the same. Each team member had their specific task and expertise in their field, allowing everyone to lead on particular issues. As a result, nobody felt useless or without a purpose.
What goals did you aim to achieve with this expedition?
Adrian's main goal was to conduct scientific work on the ice, as he is a big proponent of small-scale science projects that consume fewer resources. Niklas' main goal was to capture high-quality photos and videos of our work and the surrounding nature, as he is establishing himself as an adventure and expedition photographer and videographer. Jan, the project and expedition leader, had the task to keep everyone alive from west coast to east coast. Jens, the team's medic, was tasked with keeping everyone healthy and alive, as well as ensuring the team stayed cheerful and happy. Laura, a biology teacher from Nuuk, had long wished to cross her home country. She also aimed to gather data for a high school project.
Talk to us about training- any tips?
It helps a lot if the team is, like ours, super fit already. With everyone's background in endurance sports, adjusting the training regiment felt natural. Tyre dragging is a classic, but lots of hiking, walking, (roller)skiing and heavy lifting in the gym was also a part of our training. Given the length of the trip, the body will also adapt over time. Accept that everyone has a different approach and physique, and leverage each person's advantages for a positive outcome.
How did your expedition maintain a low-carbon footprint?
By examining the areas where your footprint is largest, you can better understand how to reduce it. For us, transportation to and from Greenland was the primary concern. Long before we left, we explored the possibility of travelling by sailboat, but our calculations showed that the weather patterns around Greenland would result in a larger footprint than by plane. We then contacted AirGreenland to see what we could do and managed to schedule our departure date on a day where their newest plane model, which offers a 25% reduction of CO2 emissions, was in use. Should we plan a trip like this again, we would choose a starting point where we could ship gear by boat or rent it locally instead of flying it in.
As outdoor enthusiasts, we tend to invest in a lot of gear, which can become problematic. It's crucial to consider what you truly need and, if necessary, buy used gear or items with a low footprint.
Practically, we ensured we left nothing behind but tracks in the snow. We carried out all our trash, including toilet paper and any litter we found from other expeditions. Since recycling options in Greenland are limite d, planning for waste management before the trip would be wise next time.
How can we inspire other adventurers to think the same?
In the early planning stages of this project, we discovered that many scientists are eager to join expeditions like ours for data collection purposes. At the same time, they often lack the time to plan or initiate larger projects. Therefore, when planning a bigger trip like this, consider inviting a scientist to join. Alternatively, for future projects, we will ask scientists which geographical areas are of interest or lacking data, and then determine what needs to be investigated. This means asking questions first and shaping the project around the answers. Find the right person for the research, and you're set.
We've also discussed how to incorporate scientific equipment into adventurers' gear so their travels can contribute to data collection without needing a scientist present. For instance, we have a solution to integrate a ground-penetrating radar into a standard sled, which could be used by commercial groups to collect valuable data year after year.
Ultimately, it's about seeking opportunities and you will find them. If you want to contribute to scientific research, reach out and find out how. Our mission statement captures this ethos: "Giving science a platform and the adventure a purpose."
Tell us more about your experience with the abandoned Cold War radar station
Before departing, we met a Norwegian team preparing to travel in the same direction as us, and we exchanged satellite tracker numbers to stay in touch. Just as we approached the abandoned radar station in the remote wilderness, we received a surprising text: "We hereby invite you to a private concert."
There we were, inside the dome of a Cold War radar station surrounded by nothing but snow and ice. A Norwegian army ranger unfolded a 50-year-old ironing board and a foldable keyboard and began to play. The acoustics were unconventional, but the experience was unlike anything else.
The station itself was surreal and almost too good to be true, filled with frozen moments of time. There were drinks still in the bar, equipment scattered around, plenty of food in the kitchen and freezers, yet also a significant amount of garbage left behind. We joked about cleaning it all up and turning it into a hotel or filming a movie there. Adrian discovered the name of an earlier expedition written on a wall, where some individuals had unfortunately perished after seeking shelter in the station for several days.
Adrian, can you elaborate on the specific research you conducted?
The research we were conducting on the Greenland Ice Shield largely revolved around calibrating or providing ground-truthing for satellite observations. These satellite observations are essential for long-term monitoring, but we need ensure that they're correct so that they can deliver robust information. We can ensure this by ground-truthing the data.
How will this data be used to improve our understanding of climate change?
We collected highly accurate surface elevation data using the 'OGRE' GNSS, we collected ice sheet stratigraphy data whilst towing our Ground Penetrating radar, we obtained daily snow density information, which again is essential for satellite elevation calibration, we used a passive seismic device to estimate ice thickness every evening, and we took a summit core that will enable us to determine the origin of the snow deposited on the ice cap over the last decade or so.
All of this data can be compared over time to measure change and in the immediate term they can be used to calibrate/ground-truth the satellite-derived or modelled information so that we can better estimate future changes.
What are some of the unique challenges of conducting scientific research in such a remote and harsh environment?
Challenges involved maintaining power for instruments, operating instruments in such conditions, backing-up data, and ensuring time/energy to complete scientific work amidst daily arduous sledging schedules. Accuracy and reliability of data are ensured by diligence and attention to detail whilst conducting the science, even amidst the cold and poor conditions...
Laura, tell us more about the educational program you are developing.
The educational project is about human physiology, glaciology and sustainability. The students will work through theory and practical exercises with the aforementioned three themes and in the end plan their own sustainable scientific small expedition in the nature close to the gymnasium in Nuuk, Greenland.
We want to give students some basic theory and current research about sustainability and climate science. We want the students to independently create their own ideas about it. The students will use the same methods as we have used on the expedition - snow pits, blood samples, cooking gear - and afterwards compare their own data with the data gathered from the expedition.
Why did you conduct regular blood sugar tests?
We wanted to investigate how hard work, high altitude and low temperatures affects the human body. The blood sugar tests are interesting because the theory and method is simple and easy for the students to do in the classroom. Furthermore, we measured oxygen saturation and respiration rate during the trip for the same reason.
Niklas, how did you approach capturing the scientific and human aspects of the expedition through your photography and videography?
Planning the documentation was quite challenging because we didn’t know what conditions we’d face or when we’d have time for data collection and glacier research. I created a list of moments I wanted to capture. Fortunately, once we established a daily routine, it remained consistent, giving me multiple opportunities to film. However, I hadn’t anticipated how difficult it would be to shoot in such harsh conditions, especially after a gruelling 10-hour day of skiing. It became a run-and-gun situation, requiring me to be everywhere all the time.
What do you hope to achieve with the book you are curating?
In my work, I strive to provide an emotional gateway to complex topics, such as climate research. With this book, I aim to take it a step further, inspiring people to consider planning and undertaking expeditions with a purpose that transcends mere adventure.The first sensation the audience will experience is the vastness and timelessness of the ice we traversed. Each day followed a monotonous routine: melting snow, eating, working, conducting scientific research, melting more snow, and sleeping.
After 31 days finally, we spotted something on the horizon—a polar bear? An old camp? Excitement surged through the group, and we all began to run towards it. After 15 minutes, we realised we had finally reached the eastern side and were gazing upon the majestic mountains of the coastline.
Jens, what are the most common health risks and medical challenges in such extreme conditions, and how do you prepare for them?
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Sunburn - we used a lot of sunscreen but that was not really sufficient. Good nose guards are hard but are really mandatory.
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Blisters and trench foot - we all got hotspots on our feet and some of us got blisters. Usually members could take care of this themselves but occasionally I was asked to help. Trench foot was aggravated by most of us using vapour liners to keep our socks and boots dry.
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Small wounds - all of us got these including sores on our fingertips which needed to be taken care of. Liner gloves helped protect the fingers but they could really hurt and tape was sometimes needed as well.
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Hygiene - we maintained hygiene by using wet wipes (buy small packs because they freeze).
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Hydration - we were told that on tough days we would need to consume 4-6 litres of fluid because of work and altitude but everyone could not consume as much. We also tried to consume around 5500kcal which probably was a little low.
All the things above were of concern because if we didn’t take care of one thing then it could escalate and become a bigger problem. The best way to ensure that we stayed healthy in these aspects was routine and really prioritising these small things such as hydration and hygiene etc. I have carpal tunnel syndrome in my hands now which is not uncommon after skiing.
I tried to do informal “checks” with everyone everyday and reminded that nothing is too small to discuss or ask about. Nothing is too embarrassing and when faced with things that were sensitive we can work with that. Safety is always a sensitive issue. Should we rope up? Should we keep the rescue equipment close by? Should we stop and rest? I would quite often take the role of the “weak” part so as not to embarrass anyone and say that I needed a rest or a short day.
I often skied behind Adrian who used your Exped classic fold dry bag as a radar bag at the back of the pulk. The patch said Valley & Peak but in my hungry hallucinating state I always tried to catch up with the "Variety Pack”.
What protocols did you have in place for dealing with severe weather conditions or injuries?
- Warm gloves-warm water in the spare gloves
- First aid in harness, then in pulk
- Pain killers in harness, common medicications in belt or in pocket
- Dry clothing close by
- Shovel close by
- Gun close by
- Extra poles in tent
- Weather-difficult. Personal as to what is bad weather
Jan, what were the key logistical challenges in planning and executing this expedition?
Handling logistics involved coordinating lots of different parts with five different individuals across 3 time zones, all tasked with providing essential information. Just getting 5 people to send money to the same account within a few days is a bigger challenge than expected! Taxes, import/export, timelines, weight, gear, risks, permits insurances etc were all points on my checklist. By addressing every one of them, step by step, it was possible to work through most of them smoothly, with only a few hiccups.
I relied heavily on lists, calculations and documents though however, not all teammates were as happy for those as I was. Therefore, I made efforts to minimise the amount of detail they needed to review.
The major logistical challenge was ensuring all our gear reached the starting point and arranging for its return from Greenland (which hasn't arrived yet!). Once at the starting line, we had to work with what we had. The primary logistical concern then was adjusting the weight of everyone's sleds (pulks) so that everyone could walk comfortably at a similar pace.
Fresh snow was one of our greatest adversaries. One night, half a metre of snow fell, and breaking through it the next day was a gruelling battle. To make any progress, we had to lighten the leading pulk significantly and switch leader constantly.
Any examples of problem-solving?
We experienced some practical gear issues, especially the boot situation, where both soles of a pair of ski-boots came loose. Knowing we had only one opportunity to effectively use glue and epoxy, we meticulously prepared the conditions for the repair. We carefully planned the placement of screws and applied the glue with precision. After the repair, we removed almost everything from the person's sled (pulk) to give the repair the best chance of holding throughout the journey.
We faced some communication challenges as well, where providing either too much or too little information could frustrate teammates. Instructing the team that we needed to walk an additional hour was generally met with acceptance, though occasionally it required further explanation to ensure everyone was on the same page.
Also, being flexible in planning when accommodating the expectations of five people can be quite challenging. This often resulted in on-the-spot planning being more rigid than perhaps necessary, as we aimed to balance everyone's satisfaction levels. However, it's impossible to fulfil every individual's needs completely.
How did your background in Civil Engineering contribute to the success of your role?
Project management tools are a super power! If you can handle timelines, risk management and budgets, and at the same time work with very different people, you can do anything!
How did you keep the team motivated and focused, especially during difficult times?
From a leadership perspective, I began with outlining what I would like from a leader: active listening, accepting others' competencies and knowledge, giving experts space and time to do their work, leading from the front while keeping track of the back, and avoiding blame. I believe these principles generally worked well, though I wished I had improved my communication skills before the trip.
The most significant impacts on motivation and focus occurred even before our arrival in Greenland. The careful selection of the team and our familiarity with each other were crucial influences on both factors. I prioritised four key factors for team selection:
1. Humour: We had a great time together most of the time, knowing each other and our weaknesses well. We had so much fun even that Niklas, our photographer, sometimes struggled to capture the tough conditions because someone was always smiling or laughing.
2. Professionals in their own field - not overlapping: Each team member had a defined purpose and felt comfortable and confident in their role, which contributed to consistent self-esteem. I can't stress this point enough, as it is often overlooked.
3. Physically fit: Every team member was accustomed to training hard and digging deeper. A good benchmark for me was knowing that everyone had completed an ultra-marathon before. If you can run 100 kilometres, it's clear that you have the capacity to train intensely, endure long periods of solitude, manage pain, and adapt to challenges.
4. Difference: We aimed to have diversity in age and personality within our team, avoiding having two individuals too alike. This gave us a good blend of views and insights, both in the specific situation, but also before leaving.
We often received questions about gender dynamics, particularly regarding having only one woman on the team. However, aside from individual personality traits and skillset, gender was not a focal point for us, and we didn’t get a difference in feedback from Laura either.
How did you decide on the gear and equipment?
Our gear selection was guided by three key factors: necessity, functionality, durability, and weight. We spent months meticulously planning and testing to determine what was essential for this expedition and what we could do without. The day before boarding the plane to Greenland, we reviewed every bag, removing unnecessary items. Yet, we still brought too much and, inevitably, forgot some important pieces. There's always room for improvement!
What was the most critical gear?
Tent: The rescue place. It protects you when s*** hits the fan!
Cooking system: Without water, you are not going anywhere.
Shell jacket: Protects you from the harsh environment. I’d even say it's more important than the down jacket. Since we spent most of our time walking and skiing, we rarely felt cold, even in temperatures below -30 degrees.
Boots: We broke a pair of boots on the trip and that made us realise how crucial this piece of gear is. Without boots, there is no walking and also no skiing. We would be lost. Fortunately we were able to fix ours.
Were there any items of gear that performed better or worse than expected?
Almost every item we brought was super necessary and we got most of the gear to work pretty well. Especially our clothing system which was very flexible and worked very well. We were really happy with the Nitecore energy system: the Summit 20000 combined with the FSP100 Solarpanel. The Powerbank still worked in the coldest conditions and the Solarpanels even inside the tent at night!
We used an "arctic bedding" system for sleeping, which is essentially a large bag containing a ready-to-use air mattress and a sleeping bag. It performed well in freezing conditions, but as temperatures rose above -5 degrees Celsius and the snow began to melt, the sleeping bag often became wet because the arctic bedding was not waterproof. This is definitely something I would change next time!
We used the Exped dry bags as food bags in the beginning - and they did the job well. We had one bag per week per person, which is a good system to work with. After their first usage phase, they were used for all different kind of things, from bin and gear bags to dry bags for down clothing. They were put under hard stress and as they were continuously scratched over rough surfaces in the fibreglass pulks, some of them got some holes, but all in all, they performed perfectly, as we hoped.
Some of us weren’t too happy with their glove/mitten situation. A good liner, heater, shell combination is necessary. Everyone had trouble with their crampons, as none of them fitted well over the big boots we wore.
What advice would you give to future arctic explorers regarding gear selection and prep?
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Weight is so important, every gram counts!
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If it is not essential, you don’t need it.
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Be prepared to repair everything
What are the most significant lessons each of you have learned from this arctic expedition?
Days are long - download more audiobooks! Communication is key. Once on the ice, all gear becomes "team gear," and any personal challenges immediately become collective concerns. No one succeeds unless everyone does. It's a situation where sharing gear, sharing loads, and sharing problems together are crucial. Helping your teammate isn't just an act of kindness—it's crucial for your own success as well.
How do you hope this expedition will influence future scientific research and public understanding of climate change?
The project was a "proof of concept" that showed that even with a minimal budget and low carbon footprint you can collect quite a lot of data. And in that we succeeded. The data will be shared with institutes and published in papers. We have gathered lots of information on project and research planning and can now, with more confidence, prepare the next research trips, which will have a much bigger outcome.
Do you have any plans for future expeditions?
Over the course of 32 days, we have spent a lot of time contemplating future expeditions. Let's just say, the next 10 years are already mapped out! Our next adventure will be a smaller running project, followed by a larger endeavour in Patagonia.
Finally, any tips or advice for team's considering a similar expedition?
It's all about teamwork! Every morning, we had a wonderful ritual: we hugged each other and wished one another a great day. We did this without fail, regardless of how bad the conditions were. Maintaining a positive team spirit and starting each day fresh, free from complaints and anger, was crucial for our success.
